18 October 2024

Herbert & Lou Henry Hoover’s Rapidan Camp

Rapidan Camp was the “Camp David” of its day.  Later known as Camp Hoover, it was the presidential retreat of U.S. President Herbert Hoover and his wife Lou Henry Hoover. 

The Hoovers were looking for an escape from the “pneumatic hammer of public contact” of Washington.  Most previous presidents lived in the general vicinity of D.C., but the Hoovers’ home was in California, so getting away for a week or two was no easy task.  Thus they began looking for a closer casual getaway.

In their early married life they had truly roughed it, living at mining camps while Hoover served as a mine engineer in remote locations in primitive accommodations.  Their requirements for their presidential getaway were simply that it be secluded, be at least 2,500 feet above sea level (to avoid mosquitoes), that it be relatively easy to travel to it from D.C., and, most importantly, that it have a stream for trout fishing.

British Prime Minister Ramsay MacDonald stayed once, after which this guest cabin became known as the Prime Minister’s Cabin. Note the circular hole in the front center of the roof – they built the cabins around the trees as best they could. The cabins also sit on the land, they did not dig down and set foundations.
Hoover loved trout fishing so much, he often threw his waders on over his suit, rushing to fish as soon as he arrived at camp.

At the same time that the search was underway, Virginia Governor Harry F. Byrd was working to establish Shenandoah National Park.  Thus, the Hoovers were invited to establish their camp at the headwaters of the Rapidan River, inside the area of the park.  The site was truly remote and undeveloped -– the Hoovers had to ride horses to view the site, as there were no roads. 

The Hoovers used their own funds to purchase 164 acres and build their camp, though they were persuaded to use the Marine Corps as labor, calling it a “military training exercise.”  Eventually 13 buildings were built as part of the camp, including a lodge, two mess halls, cabins, and a “town hall.”  They also constructed several miles of hiking trails. 

Some of the larger fireplaces required 51 tons of rock!
A decorative fountain built in the camp, with water piped over from the nearby river. The fountain is no longer running.

Nearby, a Marine Corp camp was also set up.  At times 500 marines served the camp in some capacity, providing security, building roads, assembling furniture, and building the structures onsite. 

The Hoovers used the retreat throughout his administration from 1929 to 1933.  U.S. and foreign leaders came to work and strategize in the casual environment. 

After Hoover left office he offered the camp for use to subsequent presidents and donated the property to the federal government.  However, the next presidents was Franklin D. Roosevelt, and he could not navigate the camp in his wheelchair; he established instead the retreat that is now known as Camp David. 

Subsequent presidents were not so interested in such a rustic retreat, and the camp fell into disrepair.  Eventually buildings needed to be demolished, leaving just three of the original buildings.  It wasn’t until 2004 that the park service restored the grounds and remaining structures to the condition of the Hoover presidency.

The Brown House (as opposed to the White House – get it?). This is where the President and First Lady lived. Note it extends to the left of the fireplace.
The Creel, where volunteers currently live (not open to the public); formerly a guest cabin.

The three buildings still standing are the Brown House (President’s Cabin), the Prime Minister’s Cabin, and the Creel. The Creel is now the residence of park volunteers who maintain the site.  The Prime Minister’s Cabin is now a small museum on the Camp.  But the Brown House is set up to look like how it would have been when the Hoovers were there.

Even today, accessing the site requires a 30-minute bumpy bus ride from the visitors’ center.  For those not inclined to do an official tour, a few miles of hiking can get you to the site.

The interior of the Brown House was lovely, but no pictures allowed! This picture of Lou’s study came from the National Park Service website.
Another interior picture of the Brown House that I took from the National Park Service website.
On a trail up to see the remains of a the original camp (just a fireplace and some steps) we spied two trees with old lights up in the trees.
An interior fireplace in the Prime Minister’s Cabin, now set up as a museum.
Thanks to the Hemlock blight (all but one of the original grove at the camp is gone), the landscape around the camp looks quite different today than it did back in the day.
Lou and Herbert relaxing in camp.
Doug wishing he could visit the Hoovers in the Brown House.

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