23 January 2025

Berkeley Plantation

Our friend Linda recommended Berkeley Plantation in Charles City, Virginia to us. As it was the home of a US Presidents we would have paid a visit regardless, but it’s always nice to have a recommendation. The plantation, one of the oldest in the US, has quite a history!

In December 1619, 38 English settlers arrived at was then known as Berkeley Hundred, which was an area of about 8,000 acres situated on the James River.

It’s about 20 miles upstream of Jamestown, where the first permanent settlement was established some 12 years before.

There is a 1/4 mile walking stretching from the door of the house down to the banks of the James River, with 100-year-old boxwood and other gardens. This is the “river side” of the house; the “carriage side” is the cover photo.
From the monument to the first Thanksgiving near the river.

Because the group’s charter required that they observe a “day of thanksgiving to God” on their day of arrival and annually thereafter, Berkley proclaims itself the first Thanksgiving in the United States.

In 1622 an Indian attack left nine of the settlers dead, and a retreat to Jamestown followed. The site sat abandoned for many years.

Eventually, in 1691, the Harrison family purchased 1,000 acres, building a Georgian-style three-story brick mansion in 1726, using bricks fired on-site by enslaved individuals.

A representation of the first Thanksgiving, with their Good Ship Margaret visible in the back.
Enough about the house, I’m ready to focus on the most exciting part of the day: greeter George. Since the day before I got to pet a cat at another presidential site, I’m ready to demand cats at all future presidential sites or we’re not going.

The plantation became the seat of the Harrison family for generations, including Benjamin Harrison V, a signer of the American Declaration of Independence and a governor of Virginia, and ninth US President William Henry Harrison, who was born here in 1773.

However, the Harrison family lost the home to bankruptcy in the mid-1800s, whereafter it was sold several times and eventually fell into disrepair.

During the Civil War, Union troops occupied the Plantation, and President Lincoln visited twice to confer with General George McClellan.

In 1862, the Army bugle call Taps was written and played for the first time at the site.

John Jamieson, who had been a drummer boy under McClellan and at the plantation’s encampment over the summer of 1862, purchased the home in 1907, by which time it was uninhabitable.

It took thirty years to complete the restoration, which was carried out by John’s son Malcolm and his wife Grace.

The home remains privately owned by the Jamieson family today. The architecture is original and the grounds have been restored, though the furniture is all “of the period” and not original to families that had lived there.

No pictures allowed inside, so we are once again resorting to pictures of the postcards we purchased. The double arches of the Great Rooms were said to be at the direction of Thomas Jefferson, naturally.
Picture of our postcard!
Picture of our postcard!
Oliver Wilcox Norton is the bugler who first played Taps, and his family donated these items in the 1950s. It’s believed to be the actual bugle he used to play it!
During the 1862 Battle of the Potomac (Civil War) confederate General J.E.B. Stuart’s army shot a cannonball into the side of the house according to both their website and wikipedia. However, our guide told us that it was not embedded during the battle, but mounted afterwards because tourists like it!
Look at that handsome cat! George on a postcard. I love George.
Taps was composed by General Daniel Butterfield, with assistance by bugler Norton, who left account of the scenario in his book Army Letters. Apparently, when our friend Linda had visited, they still played Taps at sunset; alas, the tradition seems to have gone by the wayside, as I could find no reference to it currently.
Doug walking towards the banks of the James River.
The guest house, now the ticket office and gift shop, was built in 1726 after the mansion to the left. The Jamiesons lived in it while restoring the mansion in the early 1900s.

3 thoughts on “Berkeley Plantation

  1. How sad “Taps” is no longer played at sunset. Played from a rise in a small copse of trees on the James River side of the home, at sunset its sound reached out across to the “lawn” to riverbank. We were told that the flat open land between the home and the navigable river served as a drop off for the wounded. There, an area where a crude tent hospital of sorts during the Civil War spread over the grounds. We saw no photographs of it, just a guide’s mention that “Taps” was meant to be calming to the injured and an assurance of sorts that their role in the fighting was over.

    1. There was an exhibit with a button you could push to play a recording, but alas it didn’t work. We looked it up on our phones and played it that way, so at least that’s something!

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