Sites in Jackson, Mississippi

Willie Morris (1934-1999) was a writer born in Jackson, Mississippi. Though he was just six months old when his family moved to Yazoo City, Mississippi, that’s still enough of a claim to have a library branch named after him, which includes a small exhibit on his life and works. Morris’ works feature the American South, particularly the Mississippi Delta. He is perhaps best known for My Dog Skip, though his seminal work is North Toward Home. He served as the youngest editor of Harper’s Magazine where he helped advance the works of William Styron and Norman Mailer, and eventually became writer-in-residence at the University of Mississippi in Oxford, Miss. There he encouraged Mississippi writers including John Grisham, broadcaster Chris Berry, and Doug’s Bennington College classmate Donna Tartt, whom Morris urged to transfer from Ole Miss to Bennington.

Willie and his cat, about whom there is a book *My Cat Spit McGee*, which I’ve now added to my reading list.

Willie used note cards to gather and organize materials for his books.

Doug went to the Big Apple Inn for the famous pig’s ear sandwich because Atlas Obscura told him to.

As we walked over to the restaurant, I asked “what do you think it will be like?” and he said, “I’m trying not to think about it at all.”

These are times when I am glad I don’t eat meat.

A pig ear sandwich on the left (I can barely stand to look at it) and a smoked sausage sandwich on the right. (Doug got them as take-out so the buns stuck to the wrappers–these are very *moist* morsels.)

Doug trying to process what he is eating.

*The Rehearsal,* P. Sanders McNeal, 1997.

*Portrait of Medgar Wiley Evers,* Jason Bouldin, 2013.

I was a bit disappointed by the Mississippi Museum of Art. It’s the largest art museum in Mississippi and it’s in the capital city, but has very little by way of world-renowned artists. It seemed a sad reflection on the state’s interest in art. The fact that I left with only a handful of photographs tells you all you need to know. Doug, however, was more forgiving than I, and reminded me that a state-run institution doesn’t necessarily have a responsibility to display the same paintings as every other museum.

There were several photographs by Eudora Welty, whose house we had just visited, so we liked that connection, at least. We also both really liked the Medgar Evers portrait, after having just visited his home, as well.

*Pageant of Birds, Farish Street Baptist Church*, Eudora Welty, 1935.

Bananas Foster Banana Pudding I love you.

We also got some Fried Green Tomatoes (back left), and I honestly don’t get what the fuss is all about.

We went to The Pig & Pint because it was noted for its ribs. Doug said they were some of the best he’s ever had. Better than pig’s ears, even.

But can we talk about the Bananas Foster Banana Pudding? I’d never heard of it before, but it came on my radar as a “must eat” and OMG it was to die for. If we’re ever back in Jackson, I’ll be back for that pudding.

Suddenly the wisteria is in bloom everywhere and it smells delightful!

The War Memorial Building is huge. It “stands as a monument to the memory of Mississippi men and women who have given their lives in defense of their country.” (N.B., apparently they were all white males judging from the art.)

The cover photo is Jxn Icons by Reshonda Perryman. The mural features writer and photographer Eudora Welty; Civil Rights leader Medgar Evers; American ballet dancer, educator, and author Thalia Mara; and rapper and philanthropist David Banner.