25 December 2024

Along the Turnagain Arm in Alaska

The Turnagain Arm is a narrow body of water sitting south of Anchorage and north of the Kenai Peninsula. The Seward Highway extends along the its northern border, right on the edge. We drove along it twice on our adventures, and in spite of cold blustery days, it was still beautiful. Mountains on both sides rise up to 6,000 feet, with many glaciers still present.

The name derives from British explorer James Cook, who was seeking the fabled Northwest Passage in 1778. He headed up the waterway, only to be forced to “turn again” when there was no path through the continent.

That stripe across the middle is the bore tide. It’s not very exciting, is it? You can see if you look that there are surfers and kayakers, so that gives it a little bit of scale.

If you’re visiting at the right time of year – unlike us – you can see Beluga Whales and lots of birds. You can also see evidence of the massive tides (up to 40 feet, the largest in the United States), with large mud flats visible when the tide is low.

One bit of craziness in the Arm is the bore tide, which creates a wave up to six feet tall, depending on the range of the tide for the day. Though there’s just one wave, it does attract surfers, kayakers, kiteboarders, and others who want to “catch a wave” in Alaska. Unlike almost everything else, we did manage to be there at the right time to see it on a “big” day.

We saw surfing in Alaska!
Potter Marsh Bird Sanctuary, where we saw almost zero birds. Sigh. At least the colors were pretty in spite of the very gray day. Notice the ranges of color on the grass.
Anyone else go all the way to Alaska just to see sleeping mallards? Just us?
I like how the sunset makes the railroad tracks glow.
We went up the Alyeska Aerial Tram in Girdwood, which turned out to really just be a ski lift, and the promised trails really weren’t. It was probably not worth the effort, but this view overlooking the Turnagain Arm was nice. I’m in the bottom right, for some scale!
A view of the mountains and glaciers from atop the tram, looking away from the Turnagain Arm.
A short hike among tall trees to the Virgin Creek Falls.
Lower Virgin Creek Falls in Girdwood.
Upper Virgin Creek Falls in Girdwood.

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