by Way back in July 2023, we decided we wanted to see the total solar eclipse of 2024. But even then, many campgrounds in the path of totality were sold out! We wound up in Kentucky because the path of totality was just a tiny sliver of the western edge of the state, and it seemed like no one had caught on yet. We booked our site and sat back for the wait. I asked Doug what would happen if the weather was bad and he assured me that they’d re-schedule the eclipse if need be. Ha ha!
We had partly cloudy skies in the forecast, and throughout the morning it ranged from sunny to very overcast. We were staying in a campground full of others who had also come for the eclipse, and around 10:30 we noticed people were starting to set up chairs on the impounding dam at one end of the lake, so I went over and set up a space for us.
For the next two hours I read and tried to avoid watching the clouds. At 12:30 Doug joined me, and 15 minutes later we could see (through our eclipse glasses) the very edge of the sun start to look indistinct as the eclipse began. For the next 75 minutes we watched the moon advance over the sun. Periodically, clouds would completely cover the sun — eek!
As the big moment grew nearer, the light took on an odd quality as it grew darker and darker (as seen in the cover photo). Finally, the full eclipse was upon us, and we had a perfect view. A cheer rose up from the crowd as totality occurred, and I was surprised how beautiful it was. I even started to cry (just a little!). The birds had indeed gone silent, and it all felt very surreal.
We saw the diamond ring effect and were in awe! Then the whole process went into reverse, at which point almost everyone packed up and left. I felt like we’ll never have this opportunity again, so I stuck around until I couldn’t wait any longer to pee.
This is exactly the sort of thing we were hoping to be able to do when we left on this adventure, and I’m so grateful that we got to experience it.
We went to Patti’s 1880’s Settlement Restaurant because it came up on our radar as a place to get a “Kentucky Hot Brown”, which was something I’d read to get while in the state. We had no idea what it was, but I’ll just go ahead and quote from the menu here:
An open-faced sandwich made with our toasted homemade bread, layered with black forest ham, mesquite smoked turkey slices and tomato. Then smothered in our homemade cheese sauce, baked, and served with a slice of Centercut Applewood Smoked Bacon and our homemade potato chips.
So in summary, a heart attack on a plate. Poor Doug, having to try stuff like this.
It’s no surprise it was delicious. We also enjoyed the fun “flower pot” bread that came with our meal, and the ridiculously decadent Peanut Butter Chess Sinker Pie we shared and couldn’t finish.
We made a quick visit to the Western Kentucky Botanical Garden, a small site in Owensboro. It has a few themed gardens, some works of art, a small conservatory, and a few historic structures. For extra fun, there were birds to be seen, which meant Doug was happy enough while I looked at flowers. It was our first time seeing Purple Martins, and they were absolutely gorgeous shimmering in the sun.
A 21-foot-tall butterfly sculpture at the botanical garden. Created by local glass artist Scott Poynter and local metal worker Chris Schartung.
We like to stop and pay our respects when they’re due, such as by visiting the grave of John Thomas Scopes. Yes, he of the “Scopes Monkey Trial,” as it came to be known, when back in 1925 he was charged and convicted of violation of the Tennessee Butler Act, which prohibited teaching evolution. Note his marker says “A Man of Courage,” and that’s the truth.
Apparently Mutton BBQ is a thing in Kentucky, so Doug went to Thomas Barbecue in Henderson to give it a try. He thought it was like a chewier version of barbecued pulled pork, but perhaps need to try it elsewhere to be really sure it was the mutton vs. the location.
A 22-foot-tall knitting needle sculpture, with 46 feet of thread weaving in and out of the ground in Paducah, a quilting destination. It was designed by local artist Michael Terra.
